It s all about conquering fear, learning water safety, expanding your ocean and wave knowledge, and returning to the true essence of surfing, fun and relaxation. In the early 80's thru out the late 90's hawaii was the surfing mecca in the pacific and established itself as the capital of surf junkies world wide.
Maybe even more popular than sunset beach would be the banzai pipeline and Waimea Bay. Others feel that longboards are great for learning, but after a year or two, a no longer newbie surfer can get more out of shortboard or a fish or a fun board. The more time that they ve been spent in the water, the greater their understanding of the ocean and weather conditions.
Any surf instructor worth their salt will make sure that you only surf in conditions that are safe for your level of experience. If you have someone that catches the wave and kind of waits for it to pick up you will see them gain speed fast and then just launch out of the wave like a rocket. Get fit and spend time in the pool if you need to.
When paddling, try and get the board planing, that is, not having the nose of your board either under water, or sticking out too far. At the end of the day choosing a board is personal and you need to get advice from an expert.
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