Like most sports, the best way to learn to surf is to do it. Do you live in California and want to surf?
Test the water first, you might be able to get away with board shorts, but I would recommend a rash vest also. Today there are many surfing accessories in use that were not available to surfers of the 1960's such as wetsuits, leashes and rash guards. You can find a private surf instructor by simply searching the internet for a surf instructor in the area in which you want to learn how to surf, they will surely be knowledgeable about all regional beaches and together you will choose the surf break best suited for you.
Some surfers really like longboarding, while others prefer the maneuverability of a shortboard. This allows greater stability. If you can get onto a good school your surfing will come on in leaps and bounds.
Shortboards and fun boards were designed with the average surfer in mind, and are definitely a design specifically for East Coast conditions. Good surfing instruction really does make a world of difference.
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