People in Hawaii made huge wood boards and would get in the water and paddle themselves out in the water and then paddle and ride the waves as they broke over the shallow sand or reefs. Instead of thinking about how you re going to get your board into your car and how you re going to feel after your first wipeout, your most important thought should be what beach am I going to choose to get acclimated with my board and which beach is going to be easiest for me to catch my first waves.
If you feel the call of the sun and surf pumping through your veins, it s time to find an instructor. On smaller days you will see the future stars of surf whipping it out on the inside reef. Check out how the school operates.
There are all sorts of secret breaks and deserted beaches along South Africa s Wild Coast. Longboards provide great flotation and stability, but they are called tankers because they can be harder to maneuver around the waves. Often you can hire these boards near your local beach, but if not, try and borrow someones mal.
Tourism has destroyed some of J-Bay s charm, however as cheap apartment buildings have sprung up in the area, detracting from its natural beauty. Start in the whitewater, practice paddling your board and catching waves to start with.
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