It s all about conquering fear, learning water safety, expanding your ocean and wave knowledge, and returning to the true essence of surfing, fun and relaxation. The North Shore on the island of Oahu has gigantic winter waves and is commonly referred to as wild water.
Remember, even when you think you are regressing, you are in fact progressing, some days you`ve got it and other days you don't, the more you use up the bad days the sooner you will reach your goal. What exactly is there to learn? This is the place were surfing legends are made and broken.
Everyone wants to ride a cool looking short board, but for learning to surf you should try and find yourself a longer board. Without the ability to paddle you will not only never catch a wave, but more than likely never even get to the line up. So many times I have seen a beginner surfer spend a stack of coin on all the latest gear and then spend an hour getting thrown around in the white water, wondering how everyone else made it out the back, it is 90% in your paddling ability. There are midsize boards, often called funboards, which will give you the best of both worlds.
The breaks in the area that will get you totally stoked are Boneyards, Dungeons, Kitchen Windows, Phantoms and Magnatubes. Now, get out there.
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