When starting the search for your board, you will need to honestly assess your skill level. It can be a challenge to find the right surfboard with so many choices out there.
In the 1930s, the sport of surfing was experiencing a Renaissance. Before the advent of wetsuits to keep them warm, many a surfer braved the frigid ocean water, especially in winter, in his bare skin. You always hear them say things like that wave was amazing or that was incredible.
The deeper you can get under the wave, the safer you will be from the force of the breaking wave. This allows greater stability. Lead with your head.
If it is more natural to have your left foot closest to the nose, you are called a natural-footer whereas if your right foot is forward, you are deemed a goofy-footer. If you are surfing on a patrolled beach make sure that you keep within the designated surfing area.
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