You just get out past the break and you sit on your board until you see a wave coming and then when you start to see waves coming you just get ready to start paddling and then you try and throw yourself into the wave and try to stand up. Surfing is popular largely because it requires no formal training, a minimum of equipment and can be enjoyed by almost anyone at any age.
If you feel the call of the sun and surf pumping through your veins, it s time to find an instructor. Another North Shore Big Wave surf spot is Waimea Beach. Safety, surf etiquette, positioning yourself for the perfect ride, and getting acquainted with your surfboard and what you need to know first.
The deeper you can get under the wave, the safer you will be from the force of the breaking wave. Also, wetsuits are often provided with your sessions, but you can always have your own. The leash was another welcome addition to the surfing world.
In surfing contests, dropping in is heavily penalized. Be sure to get wax for your water temperature, as otherwise the wax can melt off or become slippery.
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