Choosing the right board includes a few factors, including your skill level, your size or height, and what type of surfing you want to do. A crowded beach with large, aggressive waves and experienced surfers is not where you will want to attempt surfing for the first time, it will be a very daunting experience and probably discourage you.
One of the best ways to jump into surfing and get your feet wet is to sign up at a local surfing school close to where you live. Reasons, well first they are very stable so standing up will be possible within one or two attempts, they are soft so you won't slash open your flesh with the fin, or crack open your skull on the first wipeout, they are cheap and lastly they are very easy to paddle and generate speed on, which is one of the most fundamentally important part to surfing. It is from the winds fetch that waves are produced and made.
Paddling well takes some time to learn but you need to do it. When dropping in on a wave while surfing, always remember that where your head goes, your body follows. If you have someone that catches the wave and kind of waits for it to pick up you will see them gain speed fast and then just launch out of the wave like a rocket.
Practise is the key to surfing, and where many beginners fail. You can learn to stand on a board and catch a small wave in a day, or work on form, style and ocean awareness with surfing legends over the space of several days to a week or more.
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