Wednesday, June 17, 2009

big wave surfing instructions

Instead of thinking about how you re going to get your board into your car and how you re going to feel after your first wipeout, your most important thought should be what beach am I going to choose to get acclimated with my board and which beach is going to be easiest for me to catch my first waves. The only surfing instruction available to us was watching other guys in the water, copying what they where doing, and hanging on for grim death if it all came unstuck, which it usually did.

If they were not easy to carry and use then nobody would be surfing today because there are many people who have to walk for awhile before they can surf and nobody wants to carry a hundred pound wood surfboard. Another good reason to not go it alone initially is because surfing, like any sport, can be dangerous for the uninitiated. Today there are many surfing accessories in use that were not available to surfers of the 1960's such as wetsuits, leashes and rash guards.

More recently neoprene hoods, gloves and booties are used to cover and warm all the extremities as well. Stretch your neck, put your chin near the deck of your surfboard, and hurl your every thought and inspiration down the face of the wave as you paddle. If you can get onto a good school your surfing will come on in leaps and bounds.

You don't want to sink. Sharing waves keeps everyone happy.

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